yeatsvisitslincoln wrote:I'm sure it can be memorized, but that seems like a lot of functionality to remember without having labeling. There is something to be said for 2hp, though. I already don't use my Disting MkIV as much as I should and it'll tell me what I'm editing if I ask it! haha
The explicit goal here is for this to be played like an instrument, with a bit of muscle memory.
I'm waiting for more info on a few things but I'll probably get a W/ as it should do the most important thing that was making me want to get an ER301 (though the 301 obviously doesa many, many other things) and it should fit much more easily in my system.
I need to sell my Folktek Mescaline and get a Teletype first, anyway. Nobody seems interested locally so I'll put it in a nice case with lots of padding/etc. (because no way I'm shipping it like Folktek did) and list it here and on lines first.
Yeah, I ended up shipping my Mescaline in a huge box with each module separately boxed and the frame in the original box. Way more safe and it made it there in one piece.
The W/ is too expensive to fit into my current plans. Next purchase after I move my Intellijel case and my Organelle will be a couple Tirana II's, a Horologic Solum, and a 3D printer (going to print blanks/panels, cable hangers, and other modular related stuff)
Yeah final plan is to have 4 Tirana's. I love their simplicity and Xaoc stuff in general is amazing. I used to own 2 Moskwa's, but they were a little too big for what they offered. The Tirana's on the other hand, look perfect for the size, especially since they can be linked. I might try to build an expansion to switch which ones are linked together (if that's possible)
I was kinda tempted by a W/ but they quickly went from available to out of stock locally so that decision has been made for me .
Which is good, I can stick to the plan : - Folktek Mescaline, then + Teletype, then + W/.
Btw, the Mescaline will probably be $620 including worldwide shipping (unless the box ends up so big that I get murdered by shipping costs). If someone's interested, tell me.
the UltraFold is AWESOME. really beautiful destruction. i like the Tallin's distortion a lot, need to play more to get my head around mixing/staggering exponential and linear CV into it.
Eric! wrote:YOU'RE like having two pedals in one
with your...momentary fuck switch and all..
behndy wrote:the UltraFold is AWESOME. really beautiful destruction. i like the Tallin's distortion a lot, need to play more to get my head around mixing/staggering exponential and linear CV into it.
Yep, the Ultrafold is excellent. And while it can easily go into sonic annihilation territory, it can be quite subtle when desired (low fold, just a bit of gain, modulating parameters slowly). If you have more details about the Tallin's sound (or a video with just one simple enough sound going through it with some CV-ing and knob twiddling going on) that would be great .
i remember someone offered a 2hp version on Muffs a bit ago, can't find it now. it's supposed to be an easy build, i'm just completely useless at all that.
but it would be NEAT to have a Poti in rack again. i'm super in love with the Batums.
Eric! wrote:YOU'RE like having two pedals in one
with your...momentary fuck switch and all..
Pulled trigger at the /W. Going to replace a 2hp FREEZ with it. /W seems like it has more going for it than the ol' FREEZ. For example, FREEZ can ... freeze your signal or sample rate reduce your whole sample. /W seems like it can do more in the same amount of space. Certainly, a price difference exists but selling FREEZ will somewhat mitigate this sick burn in the finances. Thankfully, I have sold a large load of gear lately and have some discretionary funds at my disposal in the event of a release such as this which strikes me as a kind of "chaos sampler" or "Chaos Computer." As well, I happen to enjoy randomness or uncertainty and this looks good. It reminds me of how I was baffled at CT5 a few years ago but now understand how to use each mode very clearly in my imagination. This instance of "learning" leads me to believe I will be able to learn /W fairly well within a time span of not more than one year. Additionally, if I find the /W blows monstrous donkey dicks I feel confident I could flip it at not-too-much-of-a-loss. YA FEEL ME
MrNovember wrote:Thanks Vid! You definitely just put together a much better manual than what they did!
just so everyone knows, i didn't cover everything, so there's even more, but at last that gets you the basic functionality pretty fast.
Yeah, I'd consider your write up more of a quick start and theirs the full manual. They should really consider including some sort of simplified quick start like what Mutable does with their modules
I stopped trying to decipher the manual after "muscle memory" and "cheat codes." Planning to click all the buttons and flip all the switches until candy pours out into my earholes.
4ms manuals are pretty boss too. i like patch idea examples to more fully illustrate a concept.
also, not pooping on the /It Should Be Double V Not Doule U at ALL, looks ridiculous in such a good way for 2 hp. but that's why i always put a Freez in then ditch it. i would love to twist knobs and tap options but.... can't. once there's any cables plugged in it's just.... impossible.
it seems a really playable device.... but... how i wouldna be able to reliably touch her.
Eric! wrote:YOU'RE like having two pedals in one
with your...momentary fuck switch and all..
behndy wrote:
it seems a really playable device.... but... how i wouldna be able to reliably touch her.
I'm going to exile the thing to the very edge of the Mantis so its only got wires coming / going from one side. Should be able to punch it real good then.
W/ comes with a one page cheat sheet that covers a lot of things in an easy to understand way but it's not part of the manual available on the website somehow. I saw it on twitter...
When I get one I'll put it on the side of my case, ideally I'd prefer on the upper right corner (i.e. play it with my right hand) but I plan to put the Teletype on the bottom left and I don't think available i2c cables are long enough for that. I'll see once I have everything, which will likely not be very soon anyway .