Battery sag for any pedal, easily

[mathias]

I've used voltage regulator chips in the past that had their output voltage set with a resistor across two of the pins. Perhaps a 12V one with the correct potentiometer on it could simulate everything from low power to around 9V to over-voltage around 12V? Not sure about this though, I've never heard of anyone using one for effects pedals as a dying battery simulator.

[aen]

Allright. I'm doing it.




As soon as I can source and afford parts.


I guess I would just need a litle cable with both ends being male, or mount a male plug on the unit, and use one of those godlyke cables.

[k o y l]

I like the design !

If you put two male plug, it would be impossible to plug an adaptor in it, no ?
Why not a female plug for the iput and a male or the output ? Or two female and you include a separate cable (male-male).. it would make possible to use a longer cable if we want to ..

[aen]

Thats just what I meant. Probably typed poorly at 1AM

[felix]

Haha, that's an awesome name too!

[aen]

I come from a long line of punning linguists.

[felix]

BTW, I'm looking at it again...is this going to be footswitch-able?!

I was thinking about making this same thing a while back, ( a requirement I had was that it be footswtchable) ....but there's going to be a split second, when you switch, where the power is cut completely. How are you getting around that?

[aen]

hmmm, I might just be able to use a bigger pot and leave the "full power" wire connected the whole time, then when the switch is triggered the voltage will flow in parallel through both paths.


Yes, that is what I will try.

[felix]

That would be rad if it works without dropping power! Hit me up with a PM on price; I'll pre-order if that helps you source parts for it.

[aen]

hmmm, I might just be able to use a bigger pot and leave the "full power" wire connected the whole time, then when the switch is triggered the voltage will flow in parallel through both paths.


Yes, that is what I will try.

Hehe, that was the stupidest thing i ever posted. Ohms law prevents that from working.

Shits.

[aen]

Okay- a bit of an update-

I posted about htis thing in another thread, if you feel lost-

viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1445


I installed a jack for center positive power supplies today, in the hopes to try the voltage starving with my EHX pedals. The Power Struggle puts the power out to a center negative plug which you can fit the Godlyke daisy chain type hooker uppers onto.

Anyway, the Godlyke adaptor for center positive pedals doesn't fit into my EHX boxes, It's possible that they have designed their pedals to accept only their power supply. I think I had a Moog once that took a center positive plug. I'll try to track one down, and give it shot. However, a lot of complex digital stuff (line 6 modelers, EHX #1 echo) just shuts off when you start starving the power.

I do know that the jacks are all functioning correctly, though. I plugged a center positive power supply into the corresponding jack on the Power Struggle, and ran a digitech Bad Monkey off it. It turns into a fuzz when you suck its power down!

I also have a battery installed. When a power supply is inserted, the battery only powers the "status LED" or as I liek to call it the "Hey dummy, you are using this pedal right now" light, because I cant keep my shit straight if it doesnt light up.

You can also run 9v pedals off of this battery, but the LED introduces a tiny amount of resistance into the flow, so you always have a "little starve" when the Power Struggle is engaged.

Whew, hope you had a good read.

[felix]

Thanks for the update! I'm curious on this part:

I also have a battery installed. When a power supply is inserted, the battery only powers the "status LED" or as I liek to call it the "Hey dummy, you are using this pedal right now" light, because I cant keep my shit straight if it doesnt light up.

You can also run 9v pedals off of this battery, but the LED introduces a tiny amount of resistance into the flow, so you always have a "little starve" when the Power Struggle is engaged.

Do you have the PSU lead hooked up in some fancy way to the DC in jack so that the battery powers the LED when a PSU isn't hooked up? Or is it hooked up like a normal stombox and you're just saying that you should use the PSU, but if you don't, the 9V battery works in it's stead.

I'm just wondering if you know some fancy-pants DC jack wiring and felt like sharing this magnificent secret.

PS. You know what might be cool (or maybe it wouldn't) is a LED+LDR pairing adjusting the starve and a little schmitt trigger oscillator running the LED....LFO STARVE!

[aen]

The battery always powers the LED, through the magic of 3 wires, the switching power of the DC jack, and a wad of solder and tape. The LED used to be powered by the battery or AC, depending on what you had hooked up, but then i relized that if you were to run, sy 40 volts throug it, you would blow yr LED up

[felix]

The battery always powers the LED, through the magic of 3 wires, the switching power of the DC jack, and a wad of solder and tape. The LED used to be powered by the battery or AC, depending on what you had hooked up, but then i relized that if you were to run, sy 40 volts throug it, you would blow yr LED up

Ah! Clever bastard!

[the raytownian]

A dying battery in my Johnson delay sound way cool... It gets all there weird ass thumping/pulsing Throbbing Gristle-esque effects!... I was never able to make it work with a pot between the battery clip wire (maybe just using the wrong type of pot/the wrong wire/etc?...IDK) but I always wanted to try something like this... I'm just way too lazy and retarded (more so about getting ALL the parts needed at one time than anything, really) to do it. I think it's actually worth it to make these for lazy fucks like me who might have some money to spend, espec. if there was an exp in.