ilovefuzz.com

The Internet consensus is 9VDC Negative Center is fine. I cross referenced three forums and a Google group.

TIGHT thanks Sharkey

No power on, though the LED flickered very, very dimly at first. The headphone output appears to be emitting some kind of power-on pulse at around 78bpm, which cuts out if the power output is wiggled a litle. Seems loose.

What do you reckon the next step is? I have a soldering iron.

Just cross referenced again and the supply should be good. People use their MC 303 adapters for the CZ 1000. Not sure on next steps. I did read some where about an internal reset?

$harkToootth wrote:Just cross referenced again and the supply should be good. People use their MC 303 adapters for the CZ 1000. Not sure on next steps. I did read some where about an internal reset?

Yeah looks like there's a recessed "P-button" on the underside which acts as a factory reset to fix any bug problems, but according to the manual the unit needs to be on for it to work.

http://forum.vintagesynth.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=46644
There are some ideas in this thread

devetron wrote:If the power jack feels loose it may help to re-flow the solder where the pins are soldered to the circuit board. They take stress and often the pins break free from the solder. It is a very common injury.

madtheory wrote:4. The CZ has circuitry inside to automatically power down when left on for a certain period of time without use. This is a common source of failure.

Not sure how to approach either of these things so maybe I should take it to someone who does?

PM Pepe. He might be able to help. This is beyond my scope

Meh. I fear that I cannot really help. I also have to consult other people all the time whenever one of my beasts refuses to work properly. I have good soldering skills and have a knack for replacing broken parts, but most of the time I cannot analyse on my own what has caused a failure. I made several approaches to understand electronics, but I fear that my 10-year-old son will have better skills in the next three years, if not earlier.

Last week my Mono/Poly suddenly stopped working during a live gig. I know that I have to replace an Electromagnetic Interference suppression film capacitor that has burst, but this is a broken part that was quite easy to spot, because of all the crumbled plastic. Replacing parts is almost fun. Recapping is no problem, as well as a calibration if it doesn't necessarily need an oscilloscope (another mystical machine that I didn't fully understand up till today ...). Crimping new connectors is also helpful here and there. But show me a schematic or ask me to check an IC and you have found my weak spot. I only like to play these instruments!

trying an idea. part of a bigger thing, not pictured. bowed/prepared guitar, loopers, effects, drum pad.

malekko noise -> diy shift register pattern melody generator thing -> quad lfo -> offset/attn -> quantizer -> pico sequencer -> mult -> cloud gen -> elements -> diy adsr / neutron star -> vca -> radio music -> grainshift -> vcf -> mixer -> snd/rtn

comesect2.0 wrote:Jmtsynths?^^^^

yes! SNB2n and NF!

@cloudscapes -> Post full set up...please? I love mixing strings with odd processing configurations.

Pepe wrote:Meh. I fear that I cannot really help. I also have to consult other people all the time whenever one of my beasts refuses to work properly. I have good soldering skills and have a knack for replacing broken parts, but most of the time I cannot analyse on my own what has caused a failure. I made several approaches to understand electronics, but I fear that my 10-year-old son will have better skills in the next three years, if not earlier.

Last week my Mono/Poly suddenly stopped working during a live gig. I know that I have to replace an Electromagnetic Interference suppression film capacitor that has burst, but this is a broken part that was quite easy to spot, because of all the crumbled plastic. Replacing parts is almost fun. Recapping is no problem, as well as a calibration if it doesn't necessarily need an oscilloscope (another mystical machine that I didn't fully understand up till today ...). Crimping new connectors is also helpful here and there. But show me a schematic or ask me to check an IC and you have found my weak spot. I only like to play these instruments!

Thanks for the input anyway!

I found a place that'll take a look at it, they have a $50 nonrefundable fee for diagnosing it that's applied to the total repair, and then it's $90/hour. On one hand, if it's a really simple fix it'd cost me maybe $100. On the other hand, if it's something serious and not worth repairing, then I'm out $50.

An alternative plan is to send it out West to my friend who builds/fixes these things, as a gift. It didn't cost me much at the thrift store so I don't mind losing that in the interest of giving my friend something cool.

Before you even do that...correspond with ILF DIY and Muff DIY (if you haven't already). There are too many talented people here to not tap into their skills.

friendship wrote:
Yeah looks like there's a recessed "P-button" on the underside which acts as a factory reset to fix any bug problems

it's called a prostate, and yes it will fix your bug problems

Free one day shipping with prime.

aen wrote:

friendship wrote:
Yeah looks like there's a recessed "P-button" on the underside which acts as a factory reset to fix any bug problems

it's called a prostate, and yes it will fix your bug problems