Advice needed on staining / sealing / finishing a guitar

[tchen]

Well, I'm halfway (or more) through with my first guitar DIY refinish. It's a Toronado. Let me get to the point...

I stripped and sanded it. The walnut stain is drying right now. A friend told me if I put nitro or poly on after, it could take weeks to months to dry. I dont have this kind of time (moving soon), nor do I even care to wait that long. Wasn't really planning on puuting a nitro or poly finish on. I definitely don't want a thick and/or glossy coat on top. But I guess I would like to put something on, just to protect it a little bit.

Any reccomendations? Time and budget are a concern! Thanks!


PS- Can't wait to FINALLY put the Wilde L-609 pickups in this, and hear what it sounds like. I've had this whole project on the backburner for like 2 years.

[skullservant]

tru-oil is what I used to finish the guitar I built. Anywhere from 7-10 rubbed on coats of the stuff should protect it for a long while. It will eventually have to be reapplied, but you don't have to wait months for it to dry (I could get 2 coats done in a day- one in the morning and one at night)

[tchen]

Thanks for the tip! I think I'm gonna go with the tru-oil. Couple more questions...

How long does the stain need to dry before applying the tru-oil?
And do you suggest any sanding between or after coats of the tru-oil? With sandpaper or wool? And what number?

[Achtane]

Poly dries quickly; nitro is the one that takes FOREVER. Stupid bass was hanging for 3 months in my closet and the finish was still soft enough to mess up with a fingernail after that...

[skullservant]

Thanks for the tip! I think I'm gonna go with the tru-oil. Couple more questions...

How long does the stain need to dry before applying the tru-oil?
And do you suggest any sanding between or after coats of the tru-oil? With sandpaper or wool? And what number?

I let it dry with a fan on it for 24 hours, and made sure it was dry to the touch before applying the oil.

I did indeed sand between coats. I used 0000 whool, but I would honestly go a step up in grit/tooth because the whool I used didn't seem to have a whole lot of an effect

[theavondon]

Poly dries quickly; nitro is the one that takes FOREVER. Stupid bass was hanging for 3 months in my closet and the finish was still soft enough to mess up with a fingernail after that...

Damn, really? That's crazy.

[captainultimus]

I would advise against any oil finish. Oil is a penetrating finish. It does very little to protect the wood. If you do use something that is labeled as an oil finish make sure it as a varnish/oil mixture. Nitro should not take a very long time to dry if you spray it at the proper thickness. you should still stay away from a Nitro finish unless you have a proper set because it is extremely flammable. I would recommend looking into a water based lacquer they are much less toxic and not flammable.

[plaid sabbath]

Nitro will dry quickly, but it takes quite a while for it to cure. Patience is the key for a nitro re-fin. A good rule of thumb for lacquer finishes is to let the body cure for at least 30 days before wet sanding and polishing...if you shot the color and clear coats properly.

If you're in a rush, stay away from nitro.

To the OP...how did you strip the body? Avoid any chemical strippers at all costs. They may take off the clear and color coats but won't even touch the poly sealer. Best method for stripping is to use a heat gun and putty scraper. Heat the sealer until it pops off the wood, then use your scraper to remove it. Use a pulling motion with the scraper. If you push, you'll gouge the wood and create more work for yourself.